Rudolf eickemetee



1 R. EIGKEMEYER. Sweat Lining Hat.

Patented Feb. 22,1881.

UNITED STATES PATENT FFICE.

RUDOLF EIOKEMEYER, YONKERS, NEW YORK.

SWEAT-Ll NING HAT.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 238,035, dated February 22, 1881.

- Application filed August 2.2, 1879.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, RUDoLF EIOKEMEYER, of Yonkers, in the county of Westchester and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sweat- Lining Hats; and I do herebydeclare that the following specification, taken in connection with the drawings furnished, and forming a part of the same, is a clear, true, an d complete description thereof.

The objects of myinvention are to maintain the flared lower edge of a sweat-lining in an expanded condition without unduly straining the lining; and, further, so as tomaintain or preserve in said flaring edge, andalso in the hat itself, the oval outline characteristic of the with sweat-linings have been normally circular I in form, especially whenever the ends of said wires have been united, which results in a constant straining pressure of the hoop against the lining with which it is in contact, when said hoop, by the usual oval outline of the head or of a hat, is forced to assume an oval form; and if the hat be a soft one, and the reed or wire be comparatively stiff or strong, it is continually changing, or trying to change, its position within its recess whenever the hat is put on or taken from the head; and, so far as I know, such reeds or wires have never heretofore been so constructed as to contribute to the preservation or maintenance of the normal circumferential outline of the hat. For the attainment of the ends stated I have devised a reed or wire for sweat-linin gs which is novel, in that it is joined at its ends, and is specially formed or set to an oval outline. Such a reed or wire is applicable not only to open recessed linings, as herein shown, but also to such linings as are combined with the reed by means of the supplemental binding and securing strips, as heretofore largely employed.

The difference in operation between the specially shaped or formed reed or wire in ac- 5o cordance with my invention and the circular it is considered that the specially-shaped wire operates passively to maintain the flaring folded edge of the linin gin an expanded condition, while the circular wire operates actively under coi'istantly-varying conditions.

To more particularly describe my invention, I will refer to the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1 represents a hat containing a sweatlining in accordance with my improvements. Fig. 2 represents the same in transverse vertical section. Fig. 3 represents a detached sweat-lining turned inside out, partly in perspective and partly in section, arranged for attachment to a hat by handsewing, with a partial hat-section in dotted lines. Figs. Land The sweat-lining, usually of leather, is shown at A. Its finished surface is shown at'a, its

rear or inner surface at b, and its flaring overlapping edge at c.

The leather is cut into strips of proper width and then passed through suitable rolls to form the openinteriorrecess,d, Figs.6and 7. Thisrecess may be formed with or without first folding the edge. It may be formed by stretching the outer portion of the folded edge longitudinally, or by forcin g the leatherinto a V-shaped groove, while the remaining portion of the strip is securely confined. All-sweat-linin gs containing a reed and wire have necessarily a recess in which the wire is housed; but heretofore said recess has been formed purely by folding the edge of the lining over the wire, Whereas in my linings a recess for its reception is previously prepared, and it is an open recess, into which the reed or wire may be readily placed, and from which it may, if desirable, be readily removed. The recess, being an open one, affords between it and one edge, as ate, ample space for a line of hand or machine stitching directly to the hat-body. In Figs. 4 and 5 I show a sweat-lining with its ends joined and the reed or wire f in its recess.

For hand-sewing, (or with machine-sewing by the use of special contrivances devised by me,) the reed or wire is retained in its recess. The lining is turned inside out, as shown in Fig. 3, and the portion 6 inserted into the-hat, as indicated, with the flaring edge a resting upon the brim. This flaring edge properly locates or adjusts the lining for stitching directly to the hat, and after that is completed the main portion of the lining is turned inward within the hat into the position indicated in Figs. 1, 2, and 4., thus completely shielding the stitches.

For sewing with an ordinary machine adapted, as heretofore, to sewing in sweat-linings, the ends thereof are not joined, as previously described; but the lining is applied in strip form, as shown in Figs. 6 and 7, the eye and hand or the usual gages being used to properly locate the edge. After the stitching is completed the reed or wire f is inserted into the open interior recess, d, which fully maintains it in its desired flaring or overlapping position with relation to the under side of the hat-brim.

Heretofore such reeds or wires have had an outline as nearly circular as it is possible to attain by uniting their two ends, and as hats are never circular the said circular wires or reeds are forced to assume a hat-oval outline, and are forcibly maintained in that form solely by the strength of the material in or to which they are secured. My improved sweat-lining reed or wire is specially formed and has a predetermined hat-oval outline, as shown in Fig. 8, corresponding to that of the hat with which it is to be used, and therefore it contributes to maintain a hat in its proper shape, and it occupies its recess without any straining force upon the coincident surfaces with which it is in contact. The ends of the wire may be secured by means of a metallic clasp, or they may be slightly flattened and secured with thread. These specially-formed reeds or wires may be employed to advantage with that class of linin gs which have at the extreme flaring edge a covering for'the wire and a separate strip by which the whole is united to the hat.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent 1. The combination, with a flared and recessed sweat-lining and a hat containing the same, of a reed or wire united at its ends, and specially formed or set to an oval outline, substantially as described, whereby the reed not only operates to maintain the flared edge of the lining in an expanded condition, but also maintains the proper oval outline of said edge, and contributes to the preservation of the normal oval outline of the hat itself.

2. A sweat-lining reed or wire joined at its ends and specially formed or set to an oval outline, substantially as described.

' RUDOLF EIOKEMEYER.

Witnesses:

RICHARD SOHELLHAAS, J. GEORGE N ARR. 

